Greenwich Village’s Last Hidden Gem

Okay, so you may be thinking "Greenwich Village? Isn't that just a bunch of chain-stores and NYU buildings?" True, Washington Square and its immediate environs are teetering on the verge of suburbanization and NYU has bought up a good chunk of real estate in the area. Any self-respecting Brooklyn hipster rushing to class would probably scoff at the typical tourist munching on chain store junk here.

However, before one can start backpacking the Williamsburg Bridge in search of authentic Neapolitan pizza and craft beer, or checking out vintage subway cars from the 1900's, let's check out the city's last old world coffeehouse, Caffe Reggio. Open at 10am and clad in green awnings on 119 MacDougal Street in the heart of the Village, Caffe Reggio has weathered the Great Depression, WWII, communism, and the ever-encroaching threat of gentrification. Thus the place has been home to the literary misfits and beatniks of yesteryear, including former backpackers Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg, amongst others.

On an early Saturday morning though, the place is fairly low-key. Although one can enjoy the people watching from the handful of chairs and tables in front of the caf I recommend dining inside. The interior is really a time machine, complete with Renaissance paintings alongside several knickknacks, clocks, busts, and other neoclassical ornaments decorating the walls up to the tin ceiling which apparently is caving in because of it's age. Even the tiny bathroom, no bigger than a broom closet, is barely large enough to fit one human being yet is still remarkably clean.

After your eyes have got their fill of this fine establishment and the ancient yet massive chrome cappuccino machine towering in the back, a nod to the caf's past, sit down and order yourself the famed drink. Caffe Reggio claims to have brought the cappuccino to New York in 1927, and I wouldn't argue the fact. Despite being slightly pricey at $3.75, it is the highlight of their menu in all its foaming goodness. You won't find a replica at the nearby Starbucks. Regular coffee, espresso, hot chocolate, and teas are also available if cappuccino isn't for you. Of course, they offer standard diner fare too with reasonably priced omelets ranging from 5 to 6 dollars and some more Italian-oriented panini dishes and sandwiches which are equally as good, especially their sundried tomatoes and peppers which still burst with flavor every time.

The desserts, including a not too shabby cannoli are also worth checking out if you plan to linger around reading or chatting. The staff isn't bothersome at all but usually quite attentive and welcoming. At times, Caffe Reggio can become crowded, even with the occasional map-wielding tourist but this adds to the charm. I've seen awkward blind dates, indie film shoots, nutty intellectuals, and just old couples sipping coffee here. As such I try to bring all out-of-town folks here first to get a glimpse of the city's past while getting an affordable meal and coffee. It is the quintessential New York caf and thankfully it's remained almost unchanged since the day it opened.

Want to find out more about Greenwich Village and historic walking tours there? Visit Uncle Sam's New York, for tours on the historic Village and it's most famous landmarks.

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Blayze O\'Brien posted at 2010-4-9 Category: Travel And Life

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